TrueBuild Application Tutorial

TrueBuild is our thickest, hardest-wearing builder gel, created to offer strength, speed, and simplicity without compromising on safety. Fully hypoallergenic and base-coat-free, it’s designed for control and ease of use, making apexes and structure quicker to perfect. In this tutorial, we’ll guide you through every step of the TrueBuild application, with expert tips to help you get the most from this next-generation builder.

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Tutorial Steps 

• Cleanse the natural nail with acetone to remove oils and debris

• Manual prep: push back cuticles, lift the proximal fold, and remove non-living tissue

• Etch the nail using a 150 grit file and etching tool for cuticle area

• Cleanse again with acetone using lint-free wipe and detail brush

• (Optional) Apply PureBond and cure for 30 seconds

• Apply a paper-thin layer of TrueBuild and cure (acts as a base)

• Apply structure layer using the thicker consistency for control

• Use liner brush and flipping method to perfect apex

• (Optional) Refine surface after removing tacky layer

• Finish with top coat or colour as desired

Transcript 

Hi, and welcome back to another HONA Tutorial, A in today's video, we're gonna go over true build application. So to start off the manicure, as we would with every manicure, we wanna make sure that we are removing all those surface oils before even going in with any prep bits or files. Taking our lint free wipe saturated with acetone, and making sure to scrub under the free edge.

Now in this tutorial, I will be going over manual prep, however you can use E-file if you are trained to do so. We're starting by pushing back that cuticle before then going back in and slightly lifting that proximal fold. By doing this, it just makes it far easier when you then go in with your knife to remove any non-living tissue that is riding on the nail plate.

You can also use your loop tool for this part. Make sure that you are really. Thorough with your cuticle work as this will prevent any lifting from that area. I'm then gonna take my duster brush, just just over the excess so I can clearly see the dead cuticle that will need removing. So then using my nippers, I can carefully and slowly take that away.

[00:01:00] Remember, you are only removing the non-living tissue. Once I'm happy with how my cuticle work is looking, I'm then gonna go onto the etching of the nails. So taking my reusable file here, I'm gonna be using the 150 grit to etch over the majority of the nail plate first. Using a 150 will give you enough texture to the nail, but you need to make sure that you are extremely light handed, so it's not to cause unnecessary damage to the nail plate.

I'm then gonna get in the sidewalls and cuticle area with my etching tool. The size of it is absolutely perfect for getting those harder to reach areas. Then taking a new lint-free wipe soaked with 100% acetone, I'm again gonna scrub over that natural nail plate, including under the free edge before going in with any product.

It's at this point then that I like to take one of my gel away microfiber brushes, again, soaked in acetone, just to clean around the side walls and the area to again, make sure that there is no dust or debre going to prevent my gel from the nail plate. You can also run this under the free edge.

You'll even notice there is a little bit of [00:02:00] dust that comes away with that. This nail is now prepped and ready for product application, so this isn't a necessary step. However, you can apply HONA's bonding primer to the natural nail plate and cure for 30 seconds. Now you'll see here that I'm doing almost a scrubbing back and forth technique, and by doing this, you're going to make sure that that product gets all in between those little edges that we've just created.

As I mentioned, true build doesn't require a base coat. However, just applying a. Base layer of our bond will definitely increase your adhesion. Once that is cured, we are going in with our paper layer of true build. We call it our paper layer, as it is a paper thin layer of gel that is applied to the nail first and then cured.

This will almost act as your base layer, providing the perfect foundation for your structure layer to sit on top. Apply it in a thin and even coat, going all the way up to the side walls and around the cuticle area before curing it for 60 seconds on full power, or 99 at low heat mode. Then we're gonna go in with [00:03:00] our structure.

Now, one thing that you will notice about True Build is that we have formulated it to be one of our thickest builder gels that we have ever created. This has been done with intention, so for mainly ease of product use, especially when it comes to building your structure layer. So you can either choose to paint down your slip layer, which we have never recommended to do before, because all of our gels move very, very quickly.

However, because of the thicker consistency of this, you may wish to paint down a slip layer, which is basically a wet layer of gel over the top of your paper layer before then applying your bead or structure. If you feel confident enough without a slip layer, that is absolutely fine to do so you'll notice again, I just like to flip my client's hand upside down.

To help bring that apex down to its center and then take my liner brush to pull the product down the side walls and neaten up around the cuticle area. It is entirely up to you if you refine your builder after curing. However, if you don't wish to do so, [00:04:00] you can go straight in with your top coat. Just remember, if you are going to refine.

Firstly, wipe away the inhibition layer with some IPA, and then you can go in with your 101 80 grit buffer. You can also use a 180 or two 40 grit file. However, just remember that this is gonna take more product away, so just use the light pressure. You can then use the IPA to limp free wipe to remove any dust or debris before then going in.

With either your gel polish or your top coats. We hope you enjoy using True Build. It's honestly been a pleasure to create something so different to all of our other builder gels. Learning and taking the best parts of each one to create something that we feel is truly revolutionary. A hypoallergenic builder gel that is not only durable and hardware in but is also extremely easy to use with its slightly thicker viscosity and or without the need of a base coat.

Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you again for another tutorial.